pattern drafting workshops
Mario Braghieri
Dean of Fashion
01 Dec 2025
upd: 01 Dec 2025

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How Casting Can Make or Break a Show

Why quality is dramatically important in fashion

When Alessandro Michele released Aria, the fashion film for Gucci’s centennial in 2021, what struck me the most wasn’t the overload of logos, Gucci and Balenciaga layered onto boots and bags, chokers and septum rings. It wasn’t even the two replicas of Gwyneth Paltrow’s 1996 MTV Video Music Awards velvet Tom Ford-era suit, though that did catch my eye; or the phenomenal soundtrack, bragging about the brand’s omnipresence in popular culture. What stayed with me was the casting.
How Casting Can Make or Break a Show

The luxury paradox: wanting without learning

Walk into any fashion design classroom, and you’ll find students adorned with designer accessories, their mood boards filled with images of Chanel couture and Hermès leather goods. Everyone wants luxury, everyone craves association with the finest brands, yet few are willing to invest the time, discipline, and dedication required to understand what makes these pieces truly exceptional.

This paradox reveals a fundamental misunderstanding of what luxury actually represents. Giorgio Armani once observed, “Elegance is not about being noticed, it’s about being remembered.” True luxury isn’t merely about price points or brand recognition—it’s about the invisible hours of craftsmanship, the meticulous attention to detail, and the unwavering commitment to excellence that goes into every stitch, every cut, every decision.

The modern fashion student often seeks shortcuts to success, hoping to bypass the traditional apprenticeship model that once defined the industry. They want to design for luxury houses without understanding the construction techniques that make a couture gown hang perfectly, or create leather goods without learning how different hides behave under various conditions. This approach is not only unrealistic but ultimately self-defeating.

The craft behind creation

Quality in fashion begins with understanding materials at their most fundamental level. It means knowing why a particular weave works for a specific silhouette, understanding how different fibers age and wear, and recognizing the subtle differences between various manufacturing techniques. As Coco Chanel famously said, “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.” But difference without substance is merely novelty—it’s the deep understanding of craft that transforms difference into distinction.

The most successful fashion professionals understand that quality is not an accident. It’s the result of deliberate choices, informed by years of study and practice. When Yves Saint Laurent declared, “I have always believed that fashion was not only to make women more beautiful, but also to reassure them, give them confidence,” he was speaking about quality’s power to transform not just appearance, but self-perception.

This transformation requires patience—a virtue increasingly rare in our instant-gratification culture. Students must learn to slow down, to study the masters, to understand why certain techniques have endured for centuries while others fade into obscurity. Quality demands respect for tradition while maintaining openness to innovation.

From concept to creation: the artifact test

There’s a crucial distinction between having creative ideas and creating something tangible that embodies those ideas. Creativity without execution is merely fantasy. As designer Diane von Furstenberg noted, “The most important thing is to believe in yourself and know that you can do it.” But belief must be coupled with action, and action must be guided by skill.

In fashion education, this means moving beyond mood boards and sketches to actual garment construction. Students must learn to translate their vision into fabric, to solve the three-dimensional puzzle of how a flat pattern becomes a wearable garment. This process—from concept to artifact—is where true learning occurs.

The artifact serves as an honest judge of one’s abilities. A sketch can hide poor proportions, but a poorly constructed garment reveals every flaw. A beautiful illustration might win praise in a presentation, but a garment that doesn’t fit properly or falls apart after one wearing tells a different story. The artifact demands honesty, precision, and technical competence.

The beauty of quality

Quality possesses an inherent beauty that transcends trends and seasons. It’s found in the way a well-constructed seam lies flat against the body, in the perfect balance of a tailored jacket, in the subtle way quality fabric drapes and moves. Karl Lagerfeld understood this when he said, “Luxury is in each detail.” These details, often invisible to the casual observer, are what separate exceptional work from the merely adequate.

Quality also possesses longevity—both physical and aesthetic. A well-made garment doesn’t just last longer; it ages gracefully, developing character rather than simply wearing out. This sustainability aspect of quality has become increasingly relevant as the fashion industry grapples with its environmental impact.

The beauty of quality lies not just in the finished product, but in the process itself. There’s deep satisfaction in mastering a difficult technique, in solving a complex construction problem, in seeing one’s skills develop over time. This process-focused approach to beauty is what separates artisans from manufacturers, creators from copiers.

Building a foundation for excellence

Understanding quality requires building a solid foundation of technical skills, historical knowledge, and aesthetic sensitivity. Students must learn to see beyond surface trends to understand the underlying principles that make certain designs timeless while others quickly become dated. They must develop what fashion educator Tim Gunn calls “critical eye”—the ability to assess not just what looks good, but why it works.

This foundation building takes time and cannot be rushed. It requires studying the work of masters, understanding the evolution of construction techniques, and practicing until difficult skills become second nature. It means learning to appreciate subtlety in an age of sensationalism, to value craftsmanship in an era of mass production.

Why quality is dramatically important

In an era where fast fashion dominates retail landscapes and social media floods us with endless trend cycles, the concept of quality has become both more elusive and more essential than ever before. For aspiring fashion professionals, understanding why quality matters isn’t just about creating better products—it’s about developing a mindset that separates true craftspeople from mere trend-followers.

The luxury paradox: wanting without learning

Walk into any fashion design classroom, and you’ll find students adorned with designer accessories, their mood boards filled with images of Chanel couture and Hermès leather goods. Everyone wants luxury, everyone craves association with the finest brands, yet few are willing to invest the time, discipline, and dedication required to understand what makes these pieces truly exceptional.

This paradox reveals a fundamental misunderstanding of what luxury actually represents. Giorgio Armani once observed, “Elegance is not about being noticed, it’s about being remembered.” True luxury isn’t merely about price points or brand recognition—it’s about the invisible hours of craftsmanship, the meticulous attention to detail, and the unwavering commitment to excellence that goes into every stitch, every cut, every decision.

The modern fashion student often seeks shortcuts to success, hoping to bypass the traditional apprenticeship model that once defined the industry. They want to design for luxury houses without understanding the construction techniques that make a couture gown hang perfectly, or create leather goods without learning how different hides behave under various conditions. This approach is not only unrealistic but ultimately self-defeating.

The craft behind creation

Quality in fashion begins with understanding materials at their most fundamental level. It means knowing why a particular weave works for a specific silhouette, understanding how different fibers age and wear, and recognizing the subtle differences between various manufacturing techniques. As Coco Chanel famously said, “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.” But difference without substance is merely novelty—it’s the deep understanding of craft that transforms difference into distinction.

The most successful fashion professionals understand that quality is not an accident. It’s the result of deliberate choices, informed by years of study and practice. When Yves Saint Laurent declared, “I have always believed that fashion was not only to make women more beautiful, but also to reassure them, give them confidence,” he was speaking about quality’s power to transform not just appearance, but self-perception.

This transformation requires patience—a virtue increasingly rare in our instant-gratification culture. Students must learn to slow down, to study the masters, to understand why certain techniques have endured for centuries while others fade into obscurity. Quality demands respect for tradition while maintaining openness to innovation.

From concept to creation: the artifact test

There’s a crucial distinction between having creative ideas and creating something tangible that embodies those ideas. Creativity without execution is merely fantasy. As designer Diane von Furstenberg noted, “The most important thing is to believe in yourself and know that you can do it.” But belief must be coupled with action, and action must be guided by skill.

In fashion education, this means moving beyond mood boards and sketches to actual garment construction. Students must learn to translate their vision into fabric, to solve the three-dimensional puzzle of how a flat pattern becomes a wearable garment. This process—from concept to artifact—is where true learning occurs.

The artifact serves as an honest judge of one’s abilities. A sketch can hide poor proportions, but a poorly constructed garment reveals every flaw. A beautiful illustration might win praise in a presentation, but a garment that doesn’t fit properly or falls apart after one wearing tells a different story. The artifact demands honesty, precision, and technical competence.

The beauty of quality

Quality possesses an inherent beauty that transcends trends and seasons. It’s found in the way a well-constructed seam lies flat against the body, in the perfect balance of a tailored jacket, in the subtle way quality fabric drapes and moves. Karl Lagerfeld understood this when he said, “Luxury is in each detail.” These details, often invisible to the casual observer, are what separate exceptional work from the merely adequate.

Quality also possesses longevity—both physical and aesthetic. A well-made garment doesn’t just last longer; it ages gracefully, developing character rather than simply wearing out. This sustainability aspect of quality has become increasingly relevant as the fashion industry grapples with its environmental impact.

The beauty of quality lies not just in the finished product, but in the process itself. There’s deep satisfaction in mastering a difficult technique, in solving a complex construction problem, in seeing one’s skills develop over time. This process-focused approach to beauty is what separates artisans from manufacturers, creators from copiers.

Building a foundation for excellence

Understanding quality requires building a solid foundation of technical skills, historical knowledge, and aesthetic sensitivity. Students must learn to see beyond surface trends to understand the underlying principles that make certain designs timeless while others quickly become dated. They must develop what fashion educator Tim Gunn calls “critical eye”—the ability to assess not just what looks good, but why it works.

This foundation building takes time and cannot be rushed. It requires studying the work of masters, understanding the evolution of construction techniques, and practicing until difficult skills become second nature. It means learning to appreciate subtlety in an age of sensationalism, to value craftsmanship in an era of mass production.

The long game

Quality is ultimately about playing the long game. While others chase fleeting trends, those committed to quality build lasting careers based on reputation, skill, and consistency. They understand that true success in fashion comes not from viral moments but from sustained excellence over time.

As Vivienne Westwood observed, “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” This philosophy applies not just to consumers but to creators. In a world of endless noise, quality whispers—and those who learn to listen will always find an audience.

The path to quality is demanding, but the rewards—both personal and professional—are profound. In choosing quality over quantity, depth over breadth, mastery over mediocrity, fashion students position themselves not just for success, but for significance.

Every great designer started exactly where you are now—with passion, curiosity, and the courage to begin. The difference between those who achieve lasting impact and those who fade into obscurity isn’t talent alone, but the willingness to commit to excellence even when no one is watching. Your dedication to quality today becomes your reputation tomorrow.

The fashion industry needs you—not another trend-chaser, but a craftsperson who understands that true innovation comes from mastering the fundamentals. Every stitch you perfect, every technique you master, every hour you invest in understanding your craft is an investment in a future where your work will speak for itself. Quality is your signature. Make it count.

Written by: Mario Braghieri – Dean of Fashion.


With over thirty years of experience in fashion production, Mario Braghieri has dedicated his career to garment construction and pattern making. Born into a family business that specialized in high-quality samples and prototypes for renowned Italian brands, he developed his passion for craftsmanship early on.

Mario studied at Istituto Marangoni, aspiring to make his mark in the fashion industry as a pattern maker. After graduating, he joined the Nadini Group in Modena, Italy, producing samples and working with luxury houses such as Gianfranco Ferrè and Fendi. He later worked as a fashion production consultant and began his teaching career at Marangoni as an assistant professor.

Throughout his career, Mario has collaborated with some of the most prestigious names in fashion, including Emporio Armani, Maska, Cerruti, Mariella Burani, and Karl Lagerfeld, always pursuing excellence in construction and design.

References:

  • Vogue Business – “Why fashion’s future depends on quality, not quantity” (2023).
  • McKinsey & CompanyThe State of Fashion 2024 (publicado con The Business of Fashion).
  • Ellen MacArthur FoundationA New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future (2020).